Go on...

Okay Mr James, Mr Rik, I have tried to upload these tossers to photobucket and it's not 'aving any of it, so add me on MSN. levi.mcglinchey@hotmail.co.uk

Here's an idea, I have two Subbuteo stands full of little spectators (that have never been painted or stuck on).

Who fancies buying these off me? Then you could, like, put them around the battle or some shit? That'd be awesome.

Done.

Five pounds. I'll throw in a scale model of a Premier League trophy.

I just found a model I think Rik would love to paint:



It's a really old Noise Marine, with an electric guitar weapon and a mohican!

cool find James.

ive got the ork "goff rockers".they all have guitars and are similar to that chaos marine.
one day,i eventually want to have the goff rockers,goliaths and eschers in my little wall attached 24 section display unit.
im probably gonna start my fire dragons next though as i want to expand/concentrate on the eldar as they are all such distinct colours.also coz im still a beginner to painting techniques,all the eldar aspect warriors are pretty simplistic(i follow the guides on the GW website).there is a nice variety to the eldar as different squads/aspect warriors all have different colour schemes which contrast/compliment eachother.
i will probably leave the harlequins till last though as they have a lot going on colourwise

im just waiting for the spare room to be sorted(as one of my brothers moved out 2months ago).
i cant wait to have a proper table to sit at and do them sitting on a chair as opposed to sitting on my bedroom floor with my legs going under a coffee table (very awkward and uncomfy.)

I think it's pretty brave to tackle Eldar paint jobs - I have always been quite scared of starting with a white basecoat, because it seems a lot harder to achieve a sense of depth (a black undercoat gives ready-made shadows and stuff!) Plus a lot of the Eldar schemes are very bright brilliant colours, which I have a bit of a phobia about creating.

Maybe that's why I want to get some Plague Marines, because they are so dark and dirty!

Saying that, I do think it would be awesome to try making a corrupted Eldar force who are dedicated to Slaanesh (as it was the Eldar who accidentally brought Slaanesh into existence); it seems like an obvious idea but I cant remember ever seeing a Slaaneshi Eldar army, and that would be awesome!

radioactive rik wrote:cool find James.

ive got the ork "goff rockers".they all have guitars and are similar to that chaos marine.
one day,i eventually want to have the goff rockers,goliaths and eschers in my little wall attached 24 section display unit.
im probably gonna start my fire dragons next though as i want to expand/concentrate on the eldar as they are all such distinct colours.also coz im still a beginner to painting techniques,all the eldar aspect warriors are pretty simplistic(i follow the guides on the GW website).there is a nice variety to the eldar as different squads/aspect warriors all have different colour schemes which contrast/compliment eachother.
i will probably leave the harlequins till last though as they have a lot going on colourwise

im just waiting for the spare room to be sorted(as one of my brothers moved out 2months ago).
i cant wait to have a proper table to sit at and do them sitting on a chair as opposed to sitting on my bedroom floor with my legs going under a coffee table (very awkward and uncomfy.)

Oi, Rik, MSN, Necromunda, Oi

im a lazy git and only use my dads hotmail account for the odd ebay/amazon/ticket messages.but other than that the only "socialising" site i use/talk bollocks/waste time on is the one.

Just use PMs Lev.

James wrote:I think it's pretty brave to tackle Eldar paint jobs - I have always been quite scared of starting with a white basecoat, because it seems a lot harder to achieve a sense of depth (a black undercoat gives ready-made shadows and stuff!) Plus a lot of the Eldar schemes are very bright brilliant colours, which I have a bit of a phobia about creating.

yeah,as a kid i used to only use white undercoat as i coulnt understand the concept of spraying a model in the darkest colour possible.
but so far i used a black undercoat on all the scorpions(mainly coz of the online painting guide instructions.)and i have now learned to realise that black undercoat is so much more practical/effective.

i have found that the black undercoat works well if you dont mind gradually building up to the lighter colours.and yeah it helps save time with dark recesses/shading etc.
after initially spraying the scorpions black,i then did a base coat,and after that i did a 2nd coat of a lighter green.for the third stage of the armour i painted thin layers of the lightest of the three greens on the edges of all the armour(highlight stage)
but yeah,a white undercoat would have probably created more work/mistakes although the details of the model are easier to see when painting onto a white undercoat.
with the black undercoat,if you accidentally go over the edges/paint something the wrong colour,at least you can cover over the mistake with some chaos black,then when its dry just work your way up to get it the right colour.
with white undercoat,you have no out line to the models so you have to paint a lot of black lines manually which id find too fiddley.
however for some of the brighter models ie:fire dragons,i will use the white undercoat as yellow and orange are hard to paint onto a black undercoated surface.(i will just basecoat with a light red to create shading/outline etc)those yellow scorpion stripes took three coats before they actually looked the proper yellow.
im not really keen on drybrushing.i would drybrushed silver metallics ie:onto the tubing/faceplates/gun cords etc.

the best guides/tips are on the GW site.

also in late october time when im paid i wanna get that citadel mega paint set as its such a saving from buying the paints/contents individually.also its even more of a saving on ebay at almost £50 cheaper.

Check you PMs Ricky Dicky Doodar

radioactive rik wrote:yeah,as a kid i used to only use white undercoat as i coulnt understand the concept of spraying a model in the darkest colour possible.
but so far i used a black undercoat on all the scorpions(mainly coz of the online painting guide instructions.)and i have now learned to realise that black undercoat is so much more practical/effective.

i have found that the black undercoat works well if you dont mind gradually building up to the lighter colours.and yeah it helps save time with dark recesses/shading etc.
after initially spraying the scorpions black,i then did a base coat,and after that i did a 2nd coat of a lighter green.for the third stage of the armour i painted thin layers of the lightest of the three greens on the edges of all the armour(highlight stage)
but yeah,a white undercoat would have probably created more work/mistakes although the details of the model are easier to see when painting onto a white undercoat.
with the black undercoat,if you accidentally go over the edges/paint something the wrong colour,at least you can cover over the mistake with some chaos black,then when its dry just work your way up to get it the right colour.
with white undercoat,you have no out line to the models so you have to paint a lot of black lines manually which id find too fiddley.
however for some of the brighter models ie:fire dragons,i will use the white undercoat as yellow and orange are hard to paint onto a black undercoated surface.(i will just basecoat with a light red to create shading/outline etc)those yellow scorpion stripes took three coats before they actually looked the proper yellow.
im not really keen on drybrushing.i would drybrushed silver metallics ie:onto the tubing/faceplates/gun cords etc.

the best guides/tips are on the GW site.

also in late october time when im paid i wanna get that citadel mega paint set as its such a saving from buying the paints/contents individually.also its even more of a saving on ebay at almost £50 cheaper.

I just worked out that I could probably kick start the hobby with all the essentials and one squad of Chaos Space Marines for £60 - which isn't too bad really, as they would keep me going quite a long time as I would convert and paint each one carefully.

My current thoughts about how I would paint them is: Black basecoat, then paint all the armour Bestial Brown. Then I am going to try either streaking or dappling the brown with a colour like Rotting Flesh, and then maybe the same technique again with Bleached Bone. I am hoping this will give them a cool weathered look, but also not too dark and messy. A lot of Nurgle painters seem to go too overboard with the cliche colours, so I am planning to keep greens to a minimum and their armour will end up quite light bone coloured. (I have a few models lying around which could be colour testers before I start on the new box)

Then I will probably paint the armour edges Boltgun Metal, and might attempt some rust effect by using Scorched Brown and Blazing Orange (but that could go wrong!). I will save greens for robes and cloaks, as I think that would be quite a nice contrast. I haven't decided what my skin colour will be yet, but I will probably make any bare heads very pale and then use lots of inks to make them look infected!

Rik, we will have to have a big orgy of painting/modelling if I finally start again!

James wrote:Rik, we will have to have a big orgy of painting/modelling if I finally start again!

[/quote]

yeah lets host our own gamesday


sounds like you got a cool plan with those chaos marines.

and yeah your layering idea sounds cool.like you said you dont want it to get too messy,i agree,
and as a result im not a fan of mixing colours to make lighter/darker versions.
instead i just choose a substantially darker/lighter version of the same colour as at least you will alway be garanteed the same consistency.
im too scared to mix a cool colour one day then not be able to get it spot on another time,thus my models varying slighty in tone.
i wanna keep em all matching.
the whole "add a mix ratio of"/"2:1"/ "1:1" etc etc idea of mixing i find awkward.and it also dries fast once out of the pot so the blend keeps getting altered.
also as the water level on the brush determines how thick or thin a coat can be it makes mixing even more tricky.
lastly its better to have two jars/containers of water,one for metallics and one for the regular paints.this way you dont end up acidentally having a model looking like its had a layer of glitter sprinkled on it(as the metallics leave a residue in the water)